Hi All,

I have just got in from work with tester in hand,

OK so i have got 12v at both coils at both connections to earth.

have got 12v at the suspected plug that went last time all ok there,

all ohmic values are good from the primary and secondary coils.

have tried to check from earth to end of HT lead but not getting anything meter bouncing around.

now what do i need to check.

I'm no electricain (Where Fastfitter when you need him) but that would suggest that eithers power coming down the leads.

Can you remove the HT leads from the coils to see if you have power to that side of the coils? If not could you remove the plug caps and see if you've got power down that far?

Hi pud now I could be wrong but when I rebuilt my bike rf9 I was suffering with a simular problem. It would fire up and die on me then I would only fire on 2 pots and back fire a lot. I had every wire out plugs coils the lot and and it turned out that the carbs needed stripping and cleaning. Running out of fuel could have put **** in them that keeps getting sucked up when you run it.

i have got nothing else to try, will think about stripping them off on wednesday night.

Why do RF's not have fuel filters? I know there's the one in the tank but would another in-line one hurt that much???

Sounds like the coils are ok then - the good readings across the primary and secondary sides proves the windings are ok and the HT leads are fine. A coil is just that - two very long coils of wire like a transformer. Input 12 volts into the primary side ('shorter' coil) and you'll get more volts out of the secondary side ('longer' coil)

You shouldn't get a reading from the earth (body) of the coil to the end of the HT lead, it should be Infinity. Some meters do go a bit trying to read it.

The ECU box can only be tested witha fancy bit of kit from Suzuki, only a major dealer would have this I think.

OK, spoke with Roy and looked into the signal generator, the manual says resistance reading from black and green cable to ECU via plug connector under seat should read 135 - 200 ohm any reading below or infinity the signal generator needs replacing.

tested mine and reads 176 all ok for that one.

Here's the gubbins .....

There's about three pages in the manual for testing the ECU - all done with a magic box of tricks.

I think the only way is by process of elimination - try and borrow a known ECU and plug it in.

It's got to be worth whipping the right-side fairing off and just checking that the signal generator rotor is still on the end of the crank and not just spinning freely.




Starting to clutch at straws here I'm afraid.

i will strip down the right hand side fairing tomorrow and have looksies.